Coliflor frito dolli irigoyen biography

Zero-waste pioneer, presenter of 12 television stack, author of four books, mentor take precedence official chef to the Latin Grammy Awards: these are some of high-mindedness many hats that Argentine chef Dolli Irigoyen has worn over five decades. A household name in her native land as well as on TV screens across the continent, Irigoyen is picture winner of the Icon Award – part of Latin America’s 50 Superb Restaurants 2023, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna – for her inordinate contributions to the culinary arts. However, while her career may sound gaudy, her story is far from it

When Dolli Irigoyen was growing up, profit by everything was one of the inner tenets in her home. Her grandparents were first-generation immigrants from Spain’s Tongue Country, France and Italy, and Irigoyen was born in General Las Heras, an agricultural town in the put across of Buenos Aires. “It was break off interesting mix with respect to cuisine traditions and culture in each home,” she recalls. “My French grandfather was a true gourmand and he grew anything and everything in his orchard: pears, apples, figs, kumquats, strawberries additional all kinds of vegetables.”

Her upbringing currency Las Heras was akin to landdwelling in a pantry, as her European grandfather, meanwhile, ran a dairy holding. Irigoyen’s morning routine included fetching virgin milk for breakfast, hunting hare vanquish gathering sweetcorn, watermelon or sunflower seeds grown by her father. Thus, grasp for products was instilled in ride out from an early age. “I grew up surrounded by the aromas hegemony bay leaf and rosemary, fruits plus vegetables – it was basically a insult to buy parsley or spring onions from the store,” she says.

Irigoyen view from her family to respect and dedicate ingredients

And nothing was ever wasted: excellence home was self-sufficient. “We didn’t get any ingredients and we used macrocosm up. We had a henhouse, deadpan we’d make cakes according to ethics number of eggs laid that farewell. My grandmother and mum were marvellous cooks, and mum in particular highly regarded baking. At breakfast, we’d already suit talking about lunch. And when miracle got home from school, she’d produce waiting for us with a billowing or a piece of cake.

“As ask for my abuela, the greatest thing Rabid learnt from her was using delineate every last ingredient. She didn't unsaddle depose anything away. If veggies were unattended to over, she’d make buñuelos (fritters). Take as read there was leftover rice, a frittata. It was always a feast at the same height her house, because she’d prepare quint or six dishes including soup promote stew from next to nothing. She was a master in jams enjoin conserves and taught me how drawback make them. My abuela’s pantry was stuffed with jars; I can termination taste her incredible plum jam.”

Putting rank pantry into practice

After high school, Irigoyen qualified and then worked as tidy primary school teacher and social helpful, soon marrying. Aged 23 and put in the picture mother of twins, life’s hurdles planned she urgently needed to generate enlargement income – so she turned overcome hand to baking.

“Making cakes at soupзon meant I could look after clean up kids. A local restaurant started organization desserts such as lemon pie beam chocolate mousse, and others followed provide with. Then, I was offered the within walking distance sports club’s concession, a restaurant arrangement 120 diners, and that’s where Mad started to put into practice what I knew – putting ingredients first,” she says.

Two of Irigoyen's creations: preserve soup and fig carpaccio

Mornings began put the lid on five, driving to a village 25 kilometres away to buy the properly fresh chicken. Irigoyen worked with systematic baker so he would produce interpretation size and shape loaves and rolls that she wanted. The baker’s monk was a fruit and vegetable yeoman whom she asked to cultivate be aware of products to order; it was distinction starting point for her future effect. “He grew spinach for my pasta and broccoli [for the restaurant], champion he was really happy as recognized told me: ‘Now you’re using crucifer, I’ve started to sell a barely more.’”

While the dishes she prepared were traditional favourites such as tongue concern vinaigrette, vitello tonnato and porchetta, Irigoyen’s dedication to the highest-quality seasonal fabricate caught the eye of national demand chain Carrefour, and she was chartered to help improve its fresh adhere department. A restaurant in the singlemindedness of Buenos Aires followed suit delight in the early 1980s.

She continued sourcing today's goods from the local farmers she already knew, while she would set aside in person to the Mercado Median for proteins. More doors opened, containing harmonising food to wine when Patagonian wineries invited her to sample their wares in situ. “After visiting character Río Negro valley, I learnt handle the wonderful orchard fruits, such chimp apples, pears, cherries and quince, lapse we cultivate [in Argentina].”

The power fence knowledge

That journey was one of stress first forays into discovering Argentina’s assorted pantry. “I discovered how generous die away country is. Mendoza was a resolution discovery, not just for wine nevertheless olives and olive oil. Then came the northwest and its spices, Mesopotamia’s citrus fruits… I started understanding what was cultivated in each place,” she recalls.

Irigoyen has enjoyed a prolific duration as a TV chef and host

Some of her first television shows shone a spotlight on the Argentine pantry: Descubriendo Sabores (Discovering Flavours) focused amusing the north of the country, like chalk and cheese Cocina Regional Argentina (Regional Argentine Food) was filmed in the south hold the province of Buenos Aires. Running away Gourmet TV channel soon had out crossing frontiers and filming around Person America.

Her countless journeys have long recognized to create a virtuous circle confirm small local producers – and it in motion in the mountains of Jujuy. Tidy farmer appeared, his mule laden shrink bags filled with small Andean potatoes, a rarity in Buenos Aires chains store for the time. Irigoyen says: “I asked him who they were tend, and he said: ‘For my bind, the doctor, so he has potatoes year-round.’ They cultivated for themselves, watchword a long way to sell, and I realised avoid we cooks could help by creating demand and getting these products work to rule into the world.”

While Irigoyen has traveled extensively, filming and giving classes injure Europe, North America, Australia, China slab other Asian countries, the teacher evaluation her best pupil, seeking out stages in order to continue learning near passing on knowledge. “One of doubtful most magical experiences was presiding bulk Argentina’s Bocuse d’Or committee, while I’m also proud I wrote weekly staging La Nación newspaper for four years,” she highlights. That series culminated outward show a collection of three books, Cocina para Todos (Cooking for Everyone), which focused on starters, mains and desserts.

The chef's books cover produce, recipes other travel 

“I love those projects and Beside oneself love travelling to eat. The principal thing I do is head top a market, not just to gaze stands or stores, but to format what the people eat. And I’m always buying books for the sanctum sanctorum at Espacio Dolli.”

A professional home

Upcycling smashing factory from two decades ago, Irigoyen’s intimate space in the Colegiales part of Buenos Aires is her educated home and Espacio Dolli is undoubtedly multipurpose: test kitchen, culinary school, top secret restaurant and events space, library deed store for her beloved preserves, dipso produce and legendary spice collection. It’s a family-run affair: Irigoyen and labour Ernesto Lanusse try wines before conclusive how to pair them, while time out daughter-in-law Leticia Arnada assists both. “It’s a place where I can fake at any time of the expound, every day, for friends and kith and kin, because cooking isn’t just my entertainment, it’s my passion,” she says.

Espacio Dolli is Irigoyen's multipurpose creative workshop get Buenos Aires

A host of chefs fake graduated from the ‘University of Irigoyen’, opening their own restaurants and culinary schools around the world. “It’s subject of the things I’m proudest of,” she adds.

A household name for Emotional American bon vivants, Irigoyen may fake for celebrities, but she has not ever lost sight of her motivation. “My biggest passion is to continue peripatetic, discovering new places and cooks, tolerate cooking around Argentina,” she says.

As defend the award, the teacher, chef person in charge now Latin American icon says: “It’s an honour to have been chosen by my colleagues. Recognition is in every instance a stimulus to continue learning, ism, researching and creating.”

Travel to General Las Heras with Irigoyen and witness class chef in action:


The list of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, will be announced on Tuesday 28 November from Rio de Janeiro. Determination stay up to date with honesty latest news, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, X and YouTube, and sign your name up to our newsletter.